Happy New Year!

More lathe restoration work

I started going over the lathe trying to figure out all the levers and controls.  Found that the gear-select levers on the power feed (and threading gears) were sticking.  In fact, one of the gear-select levers was absolutely "frozen".  The gear "box" is actually open at the bottom so I was able to use my phone to take some pictures and videos to see what was going on.

Using phone to take picture "under" the gear box while its still in place.
On the lower right corner of this picture you can see some rust on a gear - that is where the stuck lever is supposed to engage.

Another "under the box shot" with phone.  Trying to get a better shot of the frozen lever area.  That area is just too congested to get a decent shot.  

At this point I realized that I would have to take the gear box off the lathe to get a better look.  After fiddling for most of a day to get the  gear box off I finally had some success.  The gear box is easiest to remove from the right (as you face the front of the lathe).  The issue is the lead screw..which is threaded the gear box (actually attached to it), the apron and of course the tail side of the lathe.   I discovered that the various head stock covers are actually fairly easy to take off.  So after a bunch of fiddling here is what I found:

Actually able to see into the gear box now that its off the lathe!
The lower left is where the stuck lever is.  See the rust on those gears?

This shows how I took off the gear box.  

Frozen lever on top.  Severely worn gear - third from the right.

The stuck lever and gear.

Another view of the stuck lever

Looking at where the stuck gear would have engaged, I see a gear with some broken teeth!  Look in front of where I am pointing in the picture.

After taking off the shaft that engages from the gearbox to the back-gears I am happy to see no more broken gears...at first..

The shaft that holds he gears that engage the back gears from the gearbox.  The big gear on the left goes to the back gears.

These are the gears that engage in the gear box.  Looks ok, right?

But on closer examination of this gear I realize that on the small smooth hub on the right of this ganged gear there seems to be the hint of gear teeth real close to.the crotch   - you can kind of see the missing teeth in this picture if you look closely.

So, evidently. this gear was broken at some point in the past, and instead of replacing it, they simply faced off the gear teeth!  So basically, what I found was that one gear had been milled smooth, one gear had broken teeth, and one gear was severely worn.   I purchased and downloaded the lathe manual from Logan (yes, they are still in business and still supply parts for this lathe!).  For the record, my lathe is a Logan T-6560H (14" swing with a 40" bed).  Then "H" on the end of the model number indicates that it has flame hardened ways.  Nice!  I believe the "T" in the front of the model number indicate that it supports a turret, although mine doesn't have a turret, I could purchase one should I choose to convert this into a turret lathe!  Nice!

Upon examination of the gearbox diagrams I determined that all three of damaged gears are EXACTLY the same part number!  Logan part number 1392.  Looking that part up on the logan website indicates it costs $220 - EACH!  that would be $660 to replace all three!  UGH

This shows the gear box with the lever shaft removed.

Closeup of where the lever shaft would be 

Closeup of the worn gear (third from the right).

After watching some youtube videos on this matter (tubalcain) I decided to check on eBay for these gears.  I was lucky and not only found the part - but I found 3 of them and they are only $38 each! So instead of costing $660 I bought the replacements for only $114!   The only problem with the replacements are that they don't include the inner bushing.  I will have to recover the bushings from the existing broken gears.

I continued with the disassembly and cleanup of the gearbox.   I used brake fluid cleaner to remove the old grease and dirt (and chips that got impacted between the gear teeth),

This picture shows the box completed emptied of gears.  I am showing the placement of  a bushing/spacer here.

Same spacer.

Showing the gear train.  Note the key.  Note that this is going to be a bugger to put together again I bet!

After cleaning the gear train with brake cleaner

More cleaned gears and shaft for the back gear connecting portion.

I did squirt some WD-40 on these parts since, once cleaned with brake cleaner, I was afraid they might rust!

Backhoe

Well, the backhoe wasn't starting for me, even after recharging the battery for days!  My next thought was just to replace the batteries (2 6 volt batteries in series) with 2 12 volt batteries in parallel.  I can pick up cheap 12 volt batteries at Walmart for total of about $220.   As I was looking over the battery box I realized that the 12 volt batteries would not physically fit, but more importantly I also realized that I was charging only 1 of the 6 volt batteries!  So I re-connected the charger, this time to the correct terminals!) and let it charge for several hours.  I had to charge at 35 A to see any effect.  That one battery hasn't been charge and is pretty fried I think.   In any case, after trying to start it again I got it to turn over and run for a few seconds!  It was fairly cold out (just a tad below freezing) so it took several attempts to get it to start and run - but it runs!  After letting it warm for a bit I moved it back into the garage.  I was careful to put the locking pins in and put the bucket down in a position that should keep it from drifting in the garage wall (like it did last time!).  I should point out that the "forward" and "reverse" pedals are identified in the backhoe user's manual!


The starting procedure is:

1. Put the machine into neutral using the big lever on the left of the steering wheel column.
2. Turn the ignition key to the right - one click
3. Push and hold the glow-plug heater button (silver button on the lower right of the front panel).  Hold it in for about 60-90 sec (if cold).  Make sure it pops back to the off position when released - it has a tendency to stick!
4. Now turn the ignition key all the way to the right and depress the hydraulic release pedal on the floor - back of your left foot as you sit in the drivers seat.
5. Open the throttle wide open
6. Hit the starter button to crank the engine.
7. It should start at this point.  Keep trying if it does not.
8. Once it starts, turn the throttle down to something reasonable,  Don't leave it wide open - it is hard on the engine!
9. Don't forget to take it out of neutral before you move it!  Also, be sure to remove the locking pins!

Back in its place in the garage.

Pumpkin processing and seed saving

I baked the last of the Musque de Provence pumpkins (they were starting to get bad spots) and pureed the meat.    I also saved the seeds.  I used 6 Cups of the puree to make pumpkin leather!  I used the nchfp recipe.

In the dehydrator.  I made 3 trays worth.

I package this one up and took it to the New Years family get together

I took one of the 3 batches over to mom's for the New Years family get together.


Since this was the last of the pumpkins I decided to save the seeds from these (also - they were FAR away from any other pumpkins so they should be true seeds.)   After I washed the seeds well, I placed them in the dehydrator at 90F overnight.  The goal was to removed as much surface moisture as possible so they wouldn't mold during storage, but not to remove so much that the seeds would be denatured.

Bear meat!

I took some goodies over to my neighbor for the holidays and he gave me several pounds of bear meat!  This was some of the 300lb bear he shot earlier this season.  I haven't tried cooking it yet, but I am excited to try it!  He also gave me some "chipped venison", and some venison hot dogs and summer sausage!

Christmas! Sawmill-lathe-attachment, Logan Engine lathe, and the Lotos welder (backhoe issues continue)

First, the Engine Lathe

Well, my attempts at figuring out the wiring without getting into the motor wiring was in vain.  I tried to check the continuity through the wiring through the switch, but I just got more confused since some of the connections could have been made in the switch itself!  While looking around for the ground wire to the frame I stumbled across the previous power hook up!  I connected the wires up to the 220V line and turned it on.  It ran - for a little while.  Then the breaker popped.  At this point I had a suspicion that the motor was previously wired for 110V, since the circuit was 30A and at 220V the motor rating was only 15A.   The only way to confirm this was to open up the motor wiring box - NOT EASY!  This box was facing BACKWARD in the metal cabinet and was very close quarters.  I wrangled into it as best I could and was able to confirm that the motors was indeed wired for 110V.  I switched the wiring according to the diagram on the front of the motor so that it would accept 220V and tried again.  IT WORKED!  Forward and reverse and no circuits popping and no humming.  YAY!!

See those numbers on some of the wires?  Those are important!  LOL  

After getting the lathe cleaned up a bit and lubricated (a little - I still need to go over it more carefully) I started machining the faceplates for the sawmill-lathe-attachment.  This went real smoothly, despite the fact that I haven't used a metal lathe in years.  I only had two bits to use and they were both the same type.  Fortunately they were useful for the cutting I had to do.

These steel pulleys took very little time to machine.  I just cut of one side of the v-belt channel and a suitable faceplate is obtained!

Lotos Welder Rediscovery

I needed to weld a steel pulley hub to a 12 inch pulley, so I got out the Lotos welder and gave it a shot.  After messing around a while I got a weld that seems ok.  I definitely need to practice more with the stick welder!

While looking around the shop I noticed I had a kit for a welding cart that I never put together.  So I put the cart together and went through some more welding stuff that I had on the shelf.  This Lotos unit, the UitLTPDC2000, is pretty cool.  It is a 3-in-1 unit that can do stick welding, TIG welding and plasma cutting!  I couldn't find any manuals for my unit but I searched online and found a manual for a later unit that was similar.  I got the plasma cutter setup together and hooked up the pancake compressor for the compressed air supply (it needs 65-70psi - fortunately the pancake compressor has a regulator).  I gave it a shot and was pleasantly surprised!  It cuts well - up to about 3/8 inch thick!  Not bad for a small unit.

The TIG welding test will have to wait until I get a tank of argon.  It looks fascinating though.

The pulley and hub welded together.  Not beautiful, but its strong enough.

Sawmill-lathe-attachment - FINISHED!

I finally finished the back-stock for the lathe attachment and painted everything (I had to switch to black paint because the local hardware store didn't have anymore grey).  NOTE to self:  painting indoors in the winter sucks.  Also, painting takes a long time.  Then I put all the stuff together, and gave the motor a try.

First run!  It runs nice!  I was afraid that the pulleys would bind and create so much friction that the motor would lock.  Nope.  Runs nice!

I do need to put on another hub to keep the pulleys aligned.

On the sawmill-bed, finally!

Whew - the blade clearance over the unit is just about a half-inch!

Oops! The boards don't allow for shorter lengths of lumber!  Here, just for the first test, I over lapped the base boards to get the shorter length.  This will lead to a somewhat conical cut.

Also, the first cuts that remove the bulk of the wood are important!  If you don't do this the wood will deflect the blade and you get these uneven cuts.

Also, critical that this is CLAMPED down quite well!  It broke free a couple times because I used these friction clamps.  Use the screw type clamps only !

Link to Vimeo video of this thing in use!

Also, a major lesson learned is that the faceplate attachment idea is not satisfactory.  The faceplates "fight".  If the faceplates are not perfectly in line with the direction of rotation they vibrate and cause significant problems.  I will have to figure out how to implement head and tail stock spurs like on wood lathes.

I am so glad I did not buy the lathe-mizer attachment at this point simply due to the observance that most of the added value seems to be mostly inherent in the rotate the log to make lengthwise cuts more easily - the "lathe" functionality is extremely limited due to the nature of the bandsaw.  To make a cylinder you have to make extremely light cuts.  EXTREMELY light cuts!  The bandsaw blade deflects very easily.  $4,000+ is a bit much for an indexable post turner!

NOTE TO SELF:  consider using the bandsaw to make the "octagon" and then make a router rail system so that real lathe like work can be done.  A router would also be able to make heavier cuts than the bandsaw blade!

Backhoe Issues

I had great hope of getting the backhoe running this weekend.  Indeed, I did get it to run for a few seconds, but it just would not continue running.  So i continued to charge it.  And charge it.  Even more.  Still no go.  So on the warmest day, when it would not start i decided that the contacts on the battery terminals must be too dirty or corroded.  So I cleaned them.  As I was cleaning them it occurred to me to check the fluid level in te battery.  It was DRY!  So I added water - a bit more that one gallon of distilled water was added!  Then i put on the big charger and set it at 2 amp slow charge.   Then later in the evening I switched to the trickle charger.  When I looked at it the next day, the fluid in the battery was fizzing and bubbling.  Still not up to power.  I will have to charge it more when I go up next time.  Unfortunately I am afraid that I wont see any more warm days this winter.  I just hope the battery can be recovered!  Replacing this battery (2 batteries actually) will not be cheap!

Planting Trees! More lathe-attachment work.

Arbor Day Trees arrived!

I was a bit surprised that they arrived in mid-December.  The ground could well have been frozen! Fortunately, it wasn't and I was able to get out and plant them.  2 Arrowwood, 2 oak, 1 birch, 2 crypemrytle, 2 ornamental crabapple, 1 dogwood, 1 colorado blue spruce, and I forget the rest.  I think I had more then was account for in the invoice.

Added the 2 new crabapples next to the others.  I added the new crypemurtle and hawthorne to the end of the row of exiting crypemrytle and hawthorne.

I put tree protectors on them because I am afraid of the deer eating them off when (if) they sprout out in the spring.

Replaced one of the arbor-day dogwoods that died earlier this year.

I put the 2 arrowwoods next to the driveway.  I will probably put up some kind of protection for them.

I put the river birch on the wet side of the hill near the hazelnuts.  I hope I don't regret this later!

I put the oaks and poplar out on the steep part of the field.

I put the spruce out near the other spruce and pines.  This sapling looks in VERY bad shape!

Deer damage to the trees

While out planting the trees I didn't notice any damage, but when I took a survey later I looked more closely.  The locust and spruce trees had been hit pretty hard by the deer!  Lots of broken limbs - even a couple of the spruce were pulled out entirely!  Now, the spruce that were pulled out where probably dead anyway, but there were a couple that took damage that were trying to grow.  I will just have to put cages on the spruce I guess.  But what about the locust?  I cant put cages on 100+ trees!  Electric fence maybe?

I noticed many locust trees had branches broken off like this.

This spruce was pulled out entirely! 

This tree had some life in it - but i don't know that it will survive now.

Closeup of deer damage

You can see here the deer scraped the bark off this tree.  This one is probably dead anyway though.

They broke the top out of this one, but there is still some life as seen on the lower limbs there.  

Sawmill-Lathe-attachment progress

I cleaned up the glue-up panels and sanded them a bit.  They are a bit wavy, but not so bad for what I need them for.  I bought some red paint just because Im tired of black and white would show too much dirt.  Also, I just liked it! LOL

First coat.  Kind looks neat because you can see the wood grain through the thin paint.

I completed the head-stock with its motor mount.  I masked off the bearings and motor mount and painted it gray.

I dinged the jointer blades straightening up the boards of the headstock.  Grrrr.I have more on order.  

Second coat!  Looking redder now.

painting these to keep them absorbing water and deforming worse.  Also, its pretty!

Second coat for head stock.  

Looking good.

Probably give head stock and glue up panels one more coat.  I still need to complete the tailstock and paint it, as well as painting the bottom of the head stock assembly.  Then I need to attach the head stock assembly to one of the glue up panels.  Still need to weld the hub to the big pulley.  Also, still need to make the faceplates and attach them to pulley hubs.  The pulley hubs will be made by removing the pulley portions either by using the metal lathe (assuming I can get the wiring figured out) out by grinding it off.  I will weld the pulley  hubs to the faceplates.  I practiced some with the welder this past weekend with this in mind.

Dialed in the current to use with the 1/8" rods.  Looks a bit rough, I should probably practice more!

On the other hand - this weld is super strong!

I thought that this metal piece represented the material of the pulley and hub, but in fact I think pulley and hubs are thicker.  Maybe need to adjust the current more...

Lathe-motor wiring

I continue to try to figure this out!  I decided to take pictures and investigate more.

Six motor wires

Six wires to switch

Wire mapping notes

After lots of analysis I came up with a sheet of VOM tests that I can apply to the wire leads to determine what is going on without having to remove the motor from its mount.